Belt sander or belt grinder???
- Thread starter martinjj
- Start date
HHH Knives
Super Moderator
Well, Hmmm.. They are both the same thing basically? Unless Im reading this wrong..
I have 3 different belt sander/grinders. 2 bench tops and one stand alone.. All 3 will do the job of shaping a blade.
I have 3 different belt sander/grinders. 2 bench tops and one stand alone.. All 3 will do the job of shaping a blade.
martinjj
Well-Known Member
Thanks, A belt sander is much cheaper than a grinder! I just thought I read some place a sander does not produce enough power to shave metal. I kinda thought it was kinda hog-wash but thought I would ask before I buy or make one. Thank you agian.
HHH Knives
Super Moderator
There may be something to that. Not sure what models your looking at etc.
If your buying a new tool, I recommend getting the best one you can afford, rather then buying a cheaper version of what you think you will want.. Buy once and buy quality.. It took me some time to figure this out.. (the hard way) and MANY tools later.. I realized I would of been better off buying the RIGHT tool the first time after burning up lesser tools trying to save a few bucks.
Have fun and Good luck finding a AWESOME grinder.
You may consider a kit or build it yourself of the NWG or Grinder in the box. etc. theres quite a few out there currently.
If your buying a new tool, I recommend getting the best one you can afford, rather then buying a cheaper version of what you think you will want.. Buy once and buy quality.. It took me some time to figure this out.. (the hard way) and MANY tools later.. I realized I would of been better off buying the RIGHT tool the first time after burning up lesser tools trying to save a few bucks.
Have fun and Good luck finding a AWESOME grinder.
You may consider a kit or build it yourself of the NWG or Grinder in the box. etc. theres quite a few out there currently.
Drew Riley
Well-Known Member
As far as terms "belt grinder" and "belt sander" they are both fairly interchangeable. They both use belts and they both sand/grind material away.
That being said, when I hear "belt grinder" I usually think of a specific array of "sanders" used for removing and shaping metal. Belt sander usually makes me think of wood sanding machines, though belts can usually be purchased for either metal, wood, or whatever other material you want to work with on each "type" of machine.
The biggest thing you should be concerned about is really 3 things:
belt size
power
configuration
Belt size: you want a machine that's going to be practical for making knives. Now don't get me wrong. Plenty of guys have used plenty of different belt sizes to grind knives on, from 1/2" wide to probably 30" wide or more. I'm not saying it can't be done on one size or the other. The majority of experienced knife makers will tell you, however, that a 2" wide belt is one of the more ideal widths, and 72" long belts are the ideal length. Why? Well, for one, there isn't a grit, type, weight, material, etc... that you can't find in a 2x72 configuration. Not necessarily so with a 2x48 (though there's plenty to get results you want) 2x42, 6x48, etc....
Also, you have a little more control with a 2" wide belt IMO, than say, a 4" or 6".
Power:
Appropriate power will depend on belt size and configuratoin (see below), but typically, you want too much power more than "not enough".
For two wheel grinders (drive wheel + contact/idler wheel) I'd say 1 HP is a MINUMUM, especially if it's not direct drive (which most are).
If it's a 3 or 4 wheel (drive, idler AND contact/2 wheel platen) then you probably want AT LEAST 1.5HP with 2 being even better. If it's a belt/pulley drive configuration, you'll lose even more power when blade touches belt.
Configuration:
This depends on what kind of grinds you want, and what kind of machine you have. Some machines can 2 wheel machines can hollow grind AND flat grind, some are really only good for one OR the other. A machine like a KMG or NWGS will typically have 3 to 4 wheels uses tool arms for doing either/or.
As for which one is better, I'd say you get a little better control and tracking with a 3 wheel, but that only goes as far as how well the machine is set up and aligned.
Personally, I prefer a 3 to 4 wheel grinder with exchangeable tool arms for versatility. That being said, if a 1/3hp 1x30 Harbor Freight belt sander is all you can afford, then by all means, it's better than nothing. But if you have $500 to $2500 to spend, there are some very nice options out there for the money.
That being said, when I hear "belt grinder" I usually think of a specific array of "sanders" used for removing and shaping metal. Belt sander usually makes me think of wood sanding machines, though belts can usually be purchased for either metal, wood, or whatever other material you want to work with on each "type" of machine.
The biggest thing you should be concerned about is really 3 things:
belt size
power
configuration
Belt size: you want a machine that's going to be practical for making knives. Now don't get me wrong. Plenty of guys have used plenty of different belt sizes to grind knives on, from 1/2" wide to probably 30" wide or more. I'm not saying it can't be done on one size or the other. The majority of experienced knife makers will tell you, however, that a 2" wide belt is one of the more ideal widths, and 72" long belts are the ideal length. Why? Well, for one, there isn't a grit, type, weight, material, etc... that you can't find in a 2x72 configuration. Not necessarily so with a 2x48 (though there's plenty to get results you want) 2x42, 6x48, etc....
Also, you have a little more control with a 2" wide belt IMO, than say, a 4" or 6".
Power:
Appropriate power will depend on belt size and configuratoin (see below), but typically, you want too much power more than "not enough".
For two wheel grinders (drive wheel + contact/idler wheel) I'd say 1 HP is a MINUMUM, especially if it's not direct drive (which most are).
If it's a 3 or 4 wheel (drive, idler AND contact/2 wheel platen) then you probably want AT LEAST 1.5HP with 2 being even better. If it's a belt/pulley drive configuration, you'll lose even more power when blade touches belt.
Configuration:
This depends on what kind of grinds you want, and what kind of machine you have. Some machines can 2 wheel machines can hollow grind AND flat grind, some are really only good for one OR the other. A machine like a KMG or NWGS will typically have 3 to 4 wheels uses tool arms for doing either/or.
As for which one is better, I'd say you get a little better control and tracking with a 3 wheel, but that only goes as far as how well the machine is set up and aligned.
Personally, I prefer a 3 to 4 wheel grinder with exchangeable tool arms for versatility. That being said, if a 1/3hp 1x30 Harbor Freight belt sander is all you can afford, then by all means, it's better than nothing. But if you have $500 to $2500 to spend, there are some very nice options out there for the money.
Drew Riley
Well-Known Member
BTW, I built and use a No Weld Grinder Sander using plans from Boss Dog, and I can't recommend it enough.
rhinoknives
Well-Known Member
I have Three Grinder/Belt sanders in my shop.
I agree with the buy the best/Only cry once Philosophy in tools and life in general!
My first was a Norman Coote Grinder. Its a two wheel, And with a 1 1/2 -2hp Motor and some step pulleys and Link belt I was in business with a real machine. Check out his machines and call and take to Norman if you like, He's a great guy with lots of knowledge.
My second was my Hardcore Grinder top end with a 1 1/2" Var. Motor.
That is still the Cadallic inmy shop with smooooth no vibration performance.
My third was Rob Frinks KMG Grinder that I bought while the Hardcore was down needing motor work after 10 years on the Baldor 1 1/2hp Var, being replaced. Not as smooth as the Hardcore but I didn't expect it to be! Still a great solid grinder.
I purchased mine with no motor and use step pulleys and one of the motors I've collected over the years .
All three were good purchases and it speeds things up to have different belts and/or tooling setups on them depending on if I am doing sharpening work or Grinding out blades.
Hope this helps and best of luck to you! A new Grinding fool like the rest of use! lol.
Laurence
www.rhinoknives.com
I agree with the buy the best/Only cry once Philosophy in tools and life in general!
My first was a Norman Coote Grinder. Its a two wheel, And with a 1 1/2 -2hp Motor and some step pulleys and Link belt I was in business with a real machine. Check out his machines and call and take to Norman if you like, He's a great guy with lots of knowledge.
My second was my Hardcore Grinder top end with a 1 1/2" Var. Motor.
That is still the Cadallic inmy shop with smooooth no vibration performance.
My third was Rob Frinks KMG Grinder that I bought while the Hardcore was down needing motor work after 10 years on the Baldor 1 1/2hp Var, being replaced. Not as smooth as the Hardcore but I didn't expect it to be! Still a great solid grinder.
I purchased mine with no motor and use step pulleys and one of the motors I've collected over the years .
All three were good purchases and it speeds things up to have different belts and/or tooling setups on them depending on if I am doing sharpening work or Grinding out blades.
Hope this helps and best of luck to you! A new Grinding fool like the rest of use! lol.
Laurence
www.rhinoknives.com
Generally a belt sander and belt grinder are the same thing. When you are working wood, you are sanding, when you are working metal, you are grinding. Generally grinding metal takes more power so the larger machines tend to be for metal grinding.