First peened slippie!

burchtree

Well-Known Member
Finished this one the other day. I've definitely invested more time and effort into these things then I really should have! Big thanks to all of you that have took the time to put together tutorials!

This one is .100 1095 with lightening strike carbon fiber. :)
 

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Mike,
Bro' your Hamons are killing me!!! It looks pretty obvious that your lines are following the clay, so what gives!?!?!? Mine never follow the clay, the last one I did was on W-2
(my 1st using W-2), I did my usual top 1/3 of the blade, and then I did what I call the pinch method, to drag the lines down a little on each side evenly, the hamon came out at the bottom of the blade on top of the edge! Actually it had 2 hamons, the second one closer towards the middle was where I had put my clay! Which was the better looking of the 2, the low one gave me doubts about edge hardness so I tested it on some 2x4's, some seasoned oak and I have a log of Moc Orange (Osage Orange) that I gave a couple of whacks at, no damage, I didn't put a fine edge on it, I was mainly wanting to see if it was hard, and it passed all of my tests! After reading several posts on Don Fogg's board, I read where Don Hanson would re-HT his blades whenever he didn't like the hamon, so I re Ht'd it last night we'll see how she turns out.

If you have any tips for W-2, 1084 and 1095, that will help me get better hamons, I'd LOVE to here them!
Your making some exquisite blades, your take on the boring old Slippie is freakin AWESOME!!! And definitley NOT BORING!!!!
Thanks Bud, Rex
 
That is one fine looking slippy. I would say it's gorgeous . Nice work! And as Rex pointed out, that hamon is sick!
 
Thanks all!

Mike,
Bro' your Hamons are killing me!!! It looks pretty obvious that your lines are following the clay, so what gives!?!?!? Mine never follow the clay, the last one I did was on W-2
(my 1st using W-2), I did my usual top 1/3 of the blade, and then I did what I call the pinch method, to drag the lines down a little on each side evenly, the hamon came out at the bottom of the blade on top of the edge! Actually it had 2 hamons, the second one closer towards the middle was where I had put my clay! Which was the better looking of the 2, the low one gave me doubts about edge hardness so I tested it on some 2x4's, some seasoned oak and I have a log of Moc Orange (Osage Orange) that I gave a couple of whacks at, no damage, I didn't put a fine edge on it, I was mainly wanting to see if it was hard, and it passed all of my tests! After reading several posts on Don Fogg's board, I read where Don Hanson would re-HT his blades whenever he didn't like the hamon, so I re Ht'd it last night we'll see how she turns out.

If you have any tips for W-2, 1084 and 1095, that will help me get better hamons, I'd LOVE to here them!
Your making some exquisite blades, your take on the boring old Slippie is freakin AWESOME!!! And definitley NOT BORING!!!!
Thanks Bud, Rex

The clay isn't used to create the line, but mainly to "coerce" it into final shape. The grind of your blade, the temps you use, the thickness, etc. will dictate where the hamon will go.
 
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