Some more newbie questions, grind angles and loveless bolts

PetrifiedWood

Well-Known Member
I've been doing a bit of reading today and while I didn't read all 19 pages of the glue wars thread on that other knife forum, I did read some of the conclusions. It has me wanting to work out a way to keep the bolsters clean and use gorilla glue for the scales, anyway.

But on to my questions. I have been doing scandi grinds with a 10 degree angle, for a 20 degree inclusive edge angle. I think this might be a bit too thin after using one of the knives a bit. It requires frequent touching up. I'm thinking of going to a 14 degree angle for a 28 degree inclusive edge angle. I'm curious what angle you guys would recommend for a scandi grind.

Also, I got my first little bag of Loveless bolts today. Are you using superglue to fill the threads and lock the bolts in place? I was just curious what procedure was best for installing these. I don't have a step drill, but I do have a 5/16" brad point drill that will leave a flat shoulder in the handle material, rather than a beveled shoulder that a conventional drill bit would leave. I am thinking I'll drill the handles through with an 11/64" bit, then follow with the 5/16" bit. What I'm not clear on is how deep to make the larger hole. Too shallow and I run the risk of grinding the nut paper thin, too deep and the handle material would be hanging on by a thread..

Also, I read about folks gluing the Loveless bolts, but I can't find what type of glue, or when and how it is applied.


Thanks!
 
I don't know anything about the degree angle question that you ask, but as to the depth to set the "loveless" nut, see my thread "Help my loveless nut fell off!" in this sub-forum. Now I set the nut to about 1/16"
from the tang. Why do you want to use gorilla glue? I use epoxy that gets all over the place including the "loveless" bolt threads and nut.
 
I don't know anything about the degree angle question that you ask, but as to the depth to set the "loveless" nut, see my thread "Help my loveless nut fell off!" in this sub-forum. Now I set the nut to about 1/16"
from the tang. Why do you want to use gorilla glue? I use epoxy that gets all over the place including the "loveless" bolt threads and nut.

Well I read the "glue wars" thread and it seems the gorilla glue was the best performer for wood to metal bonds, the only pitfall being the stuff the expands out from the glue joints getting in places you can't easily clean up like the ricasso.

So my plan is to leave a bit of a gap at the front of the scales near the ricasso with no glue, then after the gorilla glue sets up I can wick some thin CA in to seal it.
 
Twelve degrees per side is a good average for blades in the .675 to .75 width range. Its the best of both, strength and sharpness.

Fred
 
I tried gorilla glue for a small neck knife for the first time. I used masking tape to carefully mask the blade and bolster area where I didn't want the gorilla glue to stick. As the gorilla glue expanded, I wiped it off for about the first 20 minutes, then let it set over night. Peeled off the tape and used a bamboo skewer to clean it up a little. I thought that it worked well. I'd do it again.

I usually drill the counter sink hole (the 5/16") before I drill the hole for the screw(11/16"). I find it easier to get the holes concentric. Try it both ways on some scrap and see what works better for you. Your 5/16" brad point will leave a very nice mark at the bottom of the counter sink hole to align the 11/16" bit.



Ric
 
Thanks for the suggestions!

I wound up ordering one of the step drill bits to use and it seems to have worked out ok.

I do want to try the gorilla glue sometime soon. I ordered a blast cabinet to try for gluing surface prep so that should help a bit. I need to make some guides and jigs for other things too. Like a clamp-on guide to protect the blade from the media while blasting the handle, for example.
 
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