Newbie Questions

Hey guys, I'm getting ready to make my first knife from a premade blade and micarta. I'm just waiting on orders to come in, but i have a few questions.

The blade i have coming in has a mirror finish on it and I'd rather have a duller satin style finish on it, what can I use to accomplish this?

This blade has 3 3/16" holes in the handle so I plan to use 2 corby bolts and a piece of tubing for a lanyard. For drilling holes for the corbys, do I HAVE to have a counterbore bit or can I get away with a 3/16" bit and 1/4" bit? If a counterbore is necessary, can I pick one up locally or is it a pretty specialized item?

As for adhesives, I read glue wars and I'm still not sure what to go with. If you had to pick one glue to use for various handle material that can be picked up locally, what would you choose? Do I use glue in the recess for the corby bolts? Is the thong tubing simply glued in place as well?

Speaking of corbys, once i cut the excess off close to the handle, is it ok to sand the handle with the corbys intsalled or do i work around them and do them separately? The reason I ask this is for some reason I see the metal getting dragged into the handle material (if that makes sense)

I'd like to do a hidden tang next. How does one go about making the slot in the handle? is it done with files or is there a special bit that does the trick?

Thanks for all the answers...I'm sure a lot of these questions are common knowledge to you vets.

I tried to answer from my phone but lost my reply so I'll Try again
1. To dull the finish use 400 or 600 grit sand paper start at the tang and pull it towards the tip. only sand in one direction and use a clean spot of sand paper with each pass.
2. I do not own a step bit and I use the method you are asking about however Harbor Freight has a few step bits that may work you'll just have to check the size for what you need.
3. When using corbys you don't have to use glue But I like the extra hold and use the dracon 30 min epoxy
4. It is fine to sand the handles with the corbys installed just make sure that you sand the tops of the corbys, it is easy to sand low spots around the corbys if you dont watch what your doing. the macarta is much softer and will be removed quicker than the steel from the corbys

As far as hidden tangs sorry but I can't be of much help
Also check the tutorial section there is one there on putting together kits that may help
God Bless
Rodney

For epoxy, I use Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy, have for years now with no problems. On hidden tangs, you can use the correct size drill bit to get started, and use a file to enlarge the hole. Another way is a bit, that I think is called a Brad Point Bit, it will cut on the sides as well as the point, so you can drill several holes and then connect them buy applying side pressure on the bit, or just one hole and then wallor it out to the size you need. These work real well for antler drilling, just don't apply to much pressure and break the bit. Hope this helps.
Dale

Rodney, are you saying you use 2 separate bits for corbys?

Can either of those epoxys be found locally?

The step drill bits for the Corby bolts are not all that expensive and are worth the money. They will give the right size and shape for the bolt and nuts. If you ever have to drill a hole for the bolts in the tang make sure that you have a drill bit of the same actual size of the step bit. If the hole in the tang is too large the scales could shift. You should be ok with a predrilled tang if you get the bolts/revits/pin stock sized to that hole. The Corby bolts are ment to be ground and sanded flush with the scales.

You can just glue the the thong hole tubing into the handle or you can just flair the ends with something after the tubing is set in the handle. There are tools for this but anything like a center punch will work if it is larger in diameter than the tubing.

I just buy something like a 60 minute epoxy at a hardware store. Stick with the name brands. I've use store brands twice with different lots of glue that would not cure. I've never had this problem with a name brand glue. I've heard good things about the Lock-Tite brand. If you have a store in your area that sells gunsmithing supplies you could try some Acra Glass bedding compound. It also has a real good reputation with knife makers.

To put a satin finish on the blades you can sand them down with a Scotch-Brite sanding pad.

Doug

I still haven't tried corbys so I can't really comment on those. I just use epoxy to put my handles on with. Any walmart or target or Hardware store will have it. I stick with the longer setup times b/c it gives me more time to work. Be careful when putting any glues on your knife. It is a real pain to have to scrap it off without messing up your finish.

Thanks for the info! For the step drill, are you talking about one made specifically for knifemakers or one like a unibit that has several steps?

Livnoutdoorsxd9 said:

Thanks for the info! For the step drill, are you talking about one made specifically for knifemakers or one like a unibit that has several steps?

Click to expand...

Not a Unibit, but an actual counterbore.
A unibit is one bit with progressively larger diameters. A counterbore has a pilot that fits the (smaller) hole, with a larger diameter cutting surface for the shoulder. The counterbore allows a precise, flush-bottomed hole.

An example:
http://www.usaknifemaker.com/counterbore-516-w-14-pilot-for-large-corbys-p-2242.html

Livenoutdoors
I have only used Corbys on one knife I did use two seperare bits. It worked fine I just made sure to set the stop on my drill press so I would not go to deep with my second bit. I do however plan to purchase a counter bore before I use them again. My local knife supply was out of stock so I made do with what I had.

I just placed an order for a proper bit...the knife bug mush have bitten me already bc I ordered 2 more blades, pin and thong stock and more corbys. Haha I also picked up a delta 8" drill press for a good price on craigslist (I needed one anyways). Stopped at Woodcraft Co. and got some T-88 epoxy and a nice piece of lacewood board 3/8x5x24" they have a lot of good exotic board in all different thickness that'll be great for scales. Can't wait to get an order in the mail...any one of the three so I can get started!

I have another question. One of the blades I ordered takes 6-3/32" pins. From what I understand, these need to be peened? What's the technique for peening pins on scales?

No, pins don't have to be peened but, as long as you are using solid pins, they can be. You just strike the end of the pin with a ball pean to flair the ends. Peaning will distort mosaic pins. There are some places that sell short lengths of pin stock to make one pin from but you would probably be ahead by buying one long piece of pin stock in 3/32". Some hardware stores carry brass and steel rods; possibly even aluminum. It seems counterintuitive but you need a drill bit slightly larger than 3/32" to drill the holes for the scales. This applies to drilling holes in the tang too but in the case of the kit blade that's taken care of. From the listing in my Jantz catalog it looks like you will need a #41 bit to drill the pin holes. You could use a 7/64" bit but the pin will be loose in the hole and you will see a notiable gap around the pin.

I just epoxy the pins into the holes. The epoxy that you attach to scales with will hold them in place and the pins will protect the scales from being broken off by a shearing force.

A little WD-40 on some paper towel or a cotton swab works well for removing stray epoxy if you get to it before it dries. After it dries a chissel like tool made from a piece of brass rod, something about 1/4" will do, will scrape the epoxy off without scratching the steel of the blade.

Doug

Sounds good L9!!! I haven't ordered anything yet. Just about to place a kit order from knifekits when I stumble across a Mega billet lower on the 68 forum...there goes reason. Good luck and have fun !

another way to get a dull/satin finish is to use a sandblaster if you have access. I just did that and it turned out well.