First timer needing help with metal selection

mikexd40

Member
Hello All,

I love the website and have been addicted to learning for the last couple of weeks. I am drooling over most of your creations.

I made my first knife last week out of an old b4stard file. It was very, very far from perfect. But I gave it to a buddy who loves it as his new River Knife to beat up when he is on the river fishing.

I am in need of some advice on metal selection for my next venture into knife making. I am not wanting to forge my knives. I have been trying to find a place in Missouri to get my metal from but coming up short.

Do any of you have any suggestions as far as scraps from construction steel, leaf springs, etc. that I can use for my first couple of knives?

Thank you all very much.

Mike H
 
There are so few places that offer the types of steels we use for knives, it's going to be difficult to find anything in your local area (except for a select few who do live in areas where the meager number of suppliers are).
There was a time when using recycled steel (scrap) was a valid idea. The problem these days is that industry has become so cost oriented that there is simply no way to be exactly sure of what type of steel you're gona get from scap.
While steel has increased in price fairly dramatically recently, overall it is still the least expensive way to go. $3-$4 per pound for a known steel like 5160, O1, of 1080 will make your life easier and cheaper in the long run because you don't have to guess on everything to do with the steel.
 
If you have a Fastenal local to you, they usually have or can get in some tool steels like O1 and A2

otherwise I would just order some good steel from a knife maker supply company like....... This One :)
 
Thank you all. I have already gotten a shipment of green canvas micarta, 416 ss rod, leather, and liner from USA Knife Maker. Great service and fast.

I will check out Fastenal.
 
I would suggest that you stick with the simpler steels, the high carbon 10XX series, 5160, O1, etc, even though you're going to do stock removal. The more complex steels tend to be air hardening and require specialized equiptment to heat treat. That means a big outlay for heat treating furnices or molten salt baths or sending the blades out to a professional heat treater. The simpler steels also grind easier and don't chew up grinding belts as rapidly. You can build a simple forge, gas or solid fuel, to austinize the blades in and a toaster oven to temper the steel.

Doug Lester
 
To pick up some 5160 you can ask a service tech from a john deere dealership for load control shaft out of a 20, 30, 40 or 50 series tractor , or a couple straw chopper knives from a 20 or 9000 series combine . Depending on where you live in Mo I have some stuff I might be able to hook you up with .
If ya ask a tech at a deere dealer ask nice ( we get grumpy during planting / harvest time ) .
 
I'd recommend getting a known steel from a reputable knife supply such as USAKnifemaker.com, Jantz Supply, etc...
It might be a little more expensive than what you'd find in a scrap yard, but you know exactly what it is, the quality will be consistent, and you'll get a much better knife out of it in the long run.

If you're sending your steel out for professional heat treat, I'd say pick a steel you like or you're comfortable with and go for it.
If you're planning on doing your own heat treat, I'd stick with something a little simpler like 1080/1084, 5160, or even O1.
 
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