What is this part called and how do you cut it out?

SharpEye

Member
creepx11 w arrow.jpg (This drawing by Tashi used only as a reference). Thanks for information on how to make and use this part of a flipper folder. Also what is the advantage?
 
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That slot is for a hidden stop pin.Several ways to do it depending on the equipment you have.Easiest on a mill but you can also drill several holes along the radius and the clean them out with a dremel and files.
Stan
 
I have a manual miniature mill/lathe, (Sherline). I'm very new to using it. How do you mill a partial circle? What is the best way to lay out the placement and length of the semi-circle? Is there a tutorial or post on this?
What are the advantages to a hidden stop?
 
Maybe I found the answer to why use a hidden stop pin:
When the blade is closed you want the flipper to be even with or forward of the pivot. You'll find that in order to accomplish that you'll need to put the stop pin somewhere else.
Now, if that''s why, it looks like it is needed for a flipper. So...How do you mill it, and what is the best way to lay it out? Thanks.
 
OK slowly it is making sense. I lay it out by positioning the knife blade in the open position, marking that point where a stop is needed; closing the blade, and marking that stop point. Then drawing a curve between the two for the curved slot. Any rule as to where to draw that curve in relation to the pivot & bearings?
Still need milling help. Thanks.
 
Found it!!! If I get a rotary table for the mill, I can cut the curved slot. (or as suggested, I can drill it out and grind with a flex shaft).
So am I right so far? Do I NEED the curved hidden stop for a flipper?
Any rule as to where to draw that curve in relation to the pivot & bearings?
 
Thats what I was going to say. Even a small rotary table will do the trick with a milling machine possibly a heavy duty drill press and light pressure. Be sure everything is clamped down and go slow very slow.
Found it!!! If I get a rotary table for the mill, I can cut the curved slot. (or as suggested, I can drill it out and grind with a flex shaft).
So am I right so far? Do I NEED the curved hidden stop for a flipper?
Any rule as to where to draw that curve in relation to the pivot & bearings?
 
I make that cut in the liners rather than the blade. Also, instead of using a rotary table, I built a tooling block for the mill....basically a 1/2" thick block, with a folder pivot embedded from the back side. I spot the open, closed, and center of the arc with the proper size drill bit, then stack my liners on the tooling block. Bring the the end mill down, lock the quill, and rotate the liners by hand. Much less setup time on the mill, and much less costly.
 
I make that cut in the liners rather than the blade. Also, instead of using a rotary table, I built a tooling block for the mill....basically a 1/2" thick block, with a folder pivot embedded from the back side. I spot the open, closed, and center of the arc with the proper size drill bit, then stack my liners on the tooling block. Bring the the end mill down, lock the quill, and rotate the liners by hand. Much less setup time on the mill, and much less costly.
I was frustrated when I found the cost of a rotary table, so thanks!!! I found your post with photos of your jig here:
http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?2720-WIP...a-new-quot-Flipper-quot
My search skills on this site suck, so I've been going through all the posts with the word flipper in them. Slow but effective (?).
I've also wondered how to mill a french curved design into a handle. So now I'm trying to think how I might adapt your idea for this too.
 
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