Skeletonizing Tang

BRad704

Well-Known Member
I think it was Josh Dabney's Servicemember WIP that showed a tang very skeletonized, to the point of not having solid material around each of the pins or lanyard hole.

I have 5 blades profiled and before I drill any holes, I am wondering if I should leave the pin locations intact so that there is a full mechanical bond between scales, pins and tang. The upside to NOT leaving this material in place is that I can further lighten the handle and still use pins to connect scale to scale.

Thoughts? Feelings? Impressions? Dirty Looks? Anything?

Thanks in advance...
-Brad-


Rough Profiled
2011-02-01%2013.47.27.jpg


Cleaned up the 2 smaller ones and started thinking with a sharpie...
2011-02-01%2014.45.28.jpg

2011-02-01%2014.45.16.jpg
 
I like to leave a good lattice of steel in the tang for strength. That includes the bits that run across the handle, not just around the outside. Further lightening can be achieved by tapering the tang. Given a choice between the two techniques, I would forgo drilling extra holes and taper the tang instead.

I like my pins and bolts surrounded by steel too. Some may argue with this, but I do not trust epoxy to hold a knife together, prevent the scales from slipping or shearing off if dropped hard on the butt or spine, and certainly not to keep it from breaking. In my opinion epoxy exists mainly to seal out moisture; bolts or peened pins are for holding the scales on. Again, if forced to make a choice I'd throw my epoxies away and keep my Corby bolts.
 
Last edited:
I agree on preferring to leave material around the pins... If I hadn't seen it in the other thread, I really wouldn't have questioned it.

I may and try to taper one of this batch, but it would be my first attempt. In the meantime, I'll probably just drill my pin holes, then make the rest into swiss cheese and maybe cut the holes together with the jigsaw...
 
Heya Brad,

I typically wouldn't go with a skeletonized tang like that or I would make the "skeletal" zones in correlation to my pin/tube placement. Nothing wrong at all with a skeletonized tang but mostly I've drilled many 1/4" holes in an arrangement like what you've got pictured.

The servicemember knife was made from a pre-cut blank so I didn't have a choice about where the skeletizing was placed so I worked with what I had to work with. I was a little concerned about popping the epoxy bond by having open space around the 1 tube while flarring. The lanyard tube was at least right up against the tang on one side but the second from front has open space all the way around so I made sure to put that tube in last.

I like tapering the tang to reduce weight and add a nice custom touch but still go the "swiss cheese" route with a tapered tang.

All these things are about weight and balance of the finished knife and using any combination of them will have an affect.

Achieving the desired balance is a matter of trial, error, and experience. I like to make sure the blade is way heavier than the tang before putting handles on because all the added weight of finishing out the knife will be on the handle.

I do agree with James that adhesives basically seal out moisure and wouldn't want to rely on that alone.
 
Thanks for the ideas Josh... Your Servicemember build is probably one of the best build-ups I have ever seen!

Maybe I will go with a couple of different methods on this batch. That was my whole goal of making 5 somewhat similar blades (to get to test some different methods of things).

As for tapering the tang... I have been grinding on Jim Adam's Grizzly Knifemaker Grinder that has the platen, and I am trying to figure out a cheap way to make myself a disc sander with the motors I already have... Which would end up being better? or is it just personal preference?
 
All you need to taper the tang is a flat platen and a wheel. The wheel will help carve out some of the tang so you have less to remove. Tapering the tang is the way to go. Drill a few holes for epoxy to flow though and for you corby bolts or pins first. I drill two at the front of the tang and one or two in the back depending on if I have a lanyard hole. Then carve out the center, and then taper on the platen. It takes a little practice but it will take your knifemaking to the next level. There a tutorial I did on it if you are interested. Good luck.
-John
 
Back
Top