Hand finishing

RodneyJ

Well-Known Member
was reading in another thread about finishing to a satin finish. It was stated when hand sanding to work your way up through the different grits untill you get to 1000 -1200 and then to go back down to 600 for the final sanding. I have read this in several different places and I'm curious about what the differance is in the final finish as opposed to just stopping at 600 grit on the way up.
 
No matter what grit you want the final finish to be, overshooting it and coming back down makes CERTAIN you have all the previous scratches out. So you end up with a very clean, uniform satin finish. Even if you only go one grit further, say 800 then back to 600, it helps. Try it, you'll like it! You really can tell the difference, especially with an opti-visor and/or in bright sunlight (which both tend to show any little inconsistency).

I'm sure you've read about alternating the direction you sand in-between grits; it makes it easy to tell when you really do have the previous grit's pattern smoothed out. I've even gone so far as to alternate with each grit... it's time-consuming and may or may not be worth it, but it does help me get every last rascally swirl/scratch.

Another tip... when you're ready for your final step, clean the blade as good as you can(hot soapy water, then wipe down with alcohol works good for me) and use fresh, DRY paper on every stroke. This nearly eliminates stray grit or swarf causing a tiny flaw. You don't have to apply hardly any pressure, just focus on keeping the scratches nice and straight.
 
Last edited:
Take James's advice to heart! His explanation was wonderfully explained.

James: You need to copy that down and save it.....that question comes up all the time and that reply is brief, concise, and fully answers the question! Good on ya!
 
Thanks James and Ed I will do it this way far sure the first to knives I made I tried for a mirrow finish. I am going to be making a batch with D2 and have read it does not mirrow finish very well. Plus I think a satin finish will be better for what I'm making anyhow.
 
I found D2 is a little tougher to put a satin finish on , than 440 , ATS or any carbon steel . Still , it's the only way to go with D2 .
Ed was right James , you put it nicely .​
 
Glad I could help some! Check this thread for more tips. I tried using Mobil 1 as cutting fluid on my last knife, as described in that thread. It definitely helped avoid swirls and made the job go faster. I was working on a Nicholson file knife (high carbon steel) but I imagine it would work on tool or stainless steels as well. I'll find out soon, I have some CPM154 blades coming back from Peters HT in a day or two.
 
I heard that too, stabber. I have a couple bars of 3V that I'm afraid to work on! I'm told you may as well get to your final finish and edge thickness before HT otherwise it will take for-freaking-ever.
 
James thanks for the help picked up some mobile 1 and made a knife board for sanding on seems like it is cutting my sanding time way down.
Rodney
 
Back
Top