Need help wiring a controller in a oven

Need a little more info to give you much help. The instructions that come with the PID can be hard to understand but the wiring itself is pretty simple. The SSR control terminals on the PID should be wired to the control side of the SSR, noting correct polarity. The load side of the SSR should have the hot wire from your power supply wired through it, going to the heating element (high-temp. wire should be used for both leads going to the element) . If you are wiring for 110v the neutral wire can go directly to the element, I am not sure about 220 though, I have not wired one for this.
You may have to check the initial settings on the PID, it should probably be set for on/off control mode.
 
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AW,

I just wired a set-up just like that for my PID controlled forge and it seems to be working as it's supposed to.

PID wire connections-
1. blank
2. blank
3. blank
4. Thermocouple Hot wire (black)
5. Thermocouple Neutral (red)
6. Blank

7. To SSR -Hot wire
8. To SSR -Neutral wire
9. Incomming 110v Hot (black) from power switch
10. Incomming 110v Neutral (white) from plug

SSR wiring
1. Hot wire to switched power. (in my case the ssr controls a solenoid but this should be for your element in the oven)

2. Incomming 110v hot (black) from power switch

+. To #7 on PID

-. To #8 on PID

I did not wire in an alarm for my application but I do like that feature on my Evenheat.

Hope this helps you out. If not some pics may be usefull in trouble shooting along with a description of exactly what is happening when you turn on the power to your controller set-up.

Good luck,

Josh
 
Thanks Guy's I think the problem was it was too late and I was too tired when I looked at the diagram this morning it looked different , Yes its actually pretty simple , I'm a Automotive tech so I'm used to diagrams and such.
thanks Anthony
 
I got 1 more question do you just drill a hole in the top and stick the thermocouuple in it? does it neat a ceramic sheath?
 
I'd go with the sheath for a couple of reasons...

1. The element itself may not like the direct heat, and 2. the sheath will give a more even temp reading once the ceramic is up to temp.

Who did you get the TC from? EBay cheapies like to melt...

Looking forward to the first test pics.

Charlie
 
Got it wired and testing it right now its up to 1500 in about 25 min Thats not too bad it does get pretty warm on the outside of the case.
 
I have a quick question on your oven. do you know about how much you have invested? I am looking at building one or going with the sugar creek ($ 500.00). the lazy side says goes with the already built the cheep side says do it your self .... Thanks Steve
 
Well I was going to build one I got the bricks for free, controller and wire were about $100, this oven is a small one I bought of of craigslist its and old front loading jewlry or doll making kiln, But as far as a big kiln goes I'm going to buy the sugar creek also, the time and money and headache to build one just isnt worth it to me.
Anthony
 
Thanks that's kind of the way I have been leaning . I have been using my forge for some time and it works fine just wanted to go electric. My list never seems to get shorter..Steve
 
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