First blades I tried hollow grinding

whiteeugene

Well-Known Member
Here is two I finished this weekend the first is 3/16th 1095 with stabilized Zebra wood scales the second is 1/8 1095 with stabilized mahogany. These are the first blades I tried hollow grinding on. I heat treated both of these myself in my forge. The first one has a slight distal taper and tapered tang also my first attempt.
Added
Feel free to make improvement suggestions!
Things I see are
1. I need to set up a photo tent
2. I think the belly needs to be deeper.
3. There are still some deep scratches.
4 Cleanup around where the scales meet the blade this was the first time I uses colored spacier material and trimming it without scratching the blade.

attachment.php

attachment.php

attachment.php

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • 1 Zebra wood.jpg
    1 Zebra wood.jpg
    90.2 KB · Views: 238
Last edited:
What size wheel did you use?
Maybe a satin finish would help with the scratches, it does me:biggrin:

I used an 8 inch wheel the biggest scratches are from the stock not so much the grinding when I use 01 I buy flat ground and it seems a lot smother the 1095 is rolled and I don't have a flat grinding table.

Thanks for the comment.
 
Doug,
I like them both. Now go make another one:thumbup:
With the 8” wheel try running your grind lines up a little higher. I think that you’ll be happy with the look and out of 1095 with a higher deeper grind it will be a slicer.
 
About trimming the liners... I epoxy the liners/spacers to the handle material after it's flat/square and drilled. Then pop thru the liner with the same bit(s). Then just shape the scales normally. Especially on the front, on a full tang like yours. Saves trouble later on.

More belly? That probably depends on the customer. The profile shown looks pretty handy to me. The shape you put in the front of the handle is really nice.

Once you get used to grinding full distal blades and tapered tangs, you'll be hooked. They're fun to do and really help a knife look, and more importantly, balance much better :)
 
About trimming the liners... I epoxy the liners/spacers to the handle material after it's flat/square and drilled. Then pop thru the liner with the same bit(s). Then just shape the scales normally. Especially on the front, on a full tang like yours. Saves trouble later on.

More belly? That probably depends on the customer. The profile shown looks pretty handy to me. The shape you put in the front of the handle is really nice.

Once you get used to grinding full distal blades and tapered tangs, you'll be hooked. They're fun to do and really help a knife look, and more importantly, balance much better :)

I seem to learn more with each one gluing the spacers would sure have help I guess I just need to learn more patients or keep more blades in different stages so I don't get in such a hurry.

Thanks for the comments.
 
Doug...nice work.

I think you hit a very important point when you mention patience. It seems with every knife I am in less of a hurry to finish it and my results are getting better. On my first four knives I was in such a hurry to have a finished knife that my end result was sloppy. Now as I approach finishing my seventh knife I am taking more time trying to get the details right and it is paying off. The old adage that "Patience is a virtue" never rang more true to me than when I applied it to my knifemaking.
 
I think they look great.Patience is something that I still find myself working on,but as you have
already discovered it will certenally show in the fit-n-finish.Keep it up my friend,your are doing
a great job!

God bless,Keith
 
Back
Top