KMG replica questions

SHOKR

Well-Known Member
I asked Rob from beaumontmetalworks.com about shipping abroad and he said he doesnt, o i'm trying to build my own

i have couple of questions, mainly for the wheels,
i will be using 2HP motor, probably 3 phase,with 2"x72" belts, what do u think would be best drive wheel size for that ? (i will mill the wheels since its probably cheaper and didnt even find someone who would be willing to export)

should i crown just the drive or tracking wheel or both?

are there any easy to acquire replacements ?

any help would be appreciated

PS: I live in egypt
 
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i just checked again now, turns out they do ship the PARTS through forwarding company...

would be financial torture tho :|

thanks murph
 
I have just finished building a grinder and found that a slight crown on the drive wheel of about 1 or 2 mm helps. I didn't crown my tracking wheel and will definitely not crown the contact wheel.

I am making it up with a 10" contact wheel. Up to now I have been running with a wooden drive wheel made from maple cross laminated from 3/4" thick stock.

The one problem that I had is with the tracking wheel, I inadvertantly set the machine up with the tracking wheel tension bar on an angle above horizontal and COULD not get the belt to stay on until I got a burst of inspiration and reset the contact wheel position so the tension bar was horizontal and the tracking wheel pivoted from horizontal instead of on an angle to horizontal.

It is harder to explain than to do it but until I woke up at night thinking about it I just couldn't figure out how my attention to accuracy had failed.

George
 
I have just finished building a grinder and found that a slight crown on the drive wheel of about 1 or 2 mm helps. I didn't crown my tracking wheel and will definitely not crown the contact wheel.

I am making it up with a 10" contact wheel. Up to now I have been running with a wooden drive wheel made from maple cross laminated from 3/4" thick stock.

The one problem that I had is with the tracking wheel, I inadvertantly set the machine up with the tracking wheel tension bar on an angle above horizontal and COULD not get the belt to stay on until I got a burst of inspiration and reset the contact wheel position so the tension bar was horizontal and the tracking wheel pivoted from horizontal instead of on an angle to horizontal.

It is harder to explain than to do it but until I woke up at night thinking about it I just couldn't figure out how my attention to accuracy had failed.

George

many thanks George

i see what you mean, cant even pretend to understand why the angle of the tension arm different but the final effect matters most for me at this point

also the angle would definitely change according to the attachment, 8", 10", platen, etc.that would change the angle of the arm, any idea which angle would be closer to horizontal for most attachments ?
i guess will have to try myself anyway

just an idea, shouldnt the adjustment of the tracking wheel fix that problem? or id u set it fixed with no adjustment setting? (i'm totally new to this so just spit balling here really :))

i saw some of your work on Facebook btw, love it!!

thanks again
 
The contact wheel arm on my machine is adjustable so it can be moved in and out to allow mounting contact wheels, small wheel attachment, and flat platen attachment so by adjusting this arm I can also affect the tension arm position.

Trying to adjust tracking when the bar is not very near horizontal was unsuccessful.

Thank you for your compliment.

George
 
thanks for the link Don

thanks George for the info

i met the guy today who will help me build it, wasnt easy actually translating the images and info into Arabic specially when i dont know the technical terms

anyway, he suggested we make sort of rail to the drive and tracking wheel so no matter what the belt wont come off, any ideas or comments on that ?

also he said it should be maid with metal and paint it/galvanize it (electro plate?)

he actually said regular steel would be too hard to drill... ??? i wasnt convinced but here ppl mostly go by "steel" and "iron" description of the type is very vague

any help with that?

many thanks
 
You might talk to your friend and tell him that regular steel can be used, the soft kind that welders use.

Yes drilling can be a problem if the drilling is done with a hand held drill, a drill press is usually a big help.

If you take the time to look up my grinder, the design requires very few holes to be drilled.

I know what you mean by the steel/iron confusion even around here I run into people who refer to structural steel as iron because iron workers do the assembly of steel framed buildings.

George
 
he actually said regular steel would be too hard to drill... ??? i wasnt convinced but here ppl mostly go by "steel" and "iron" description of the type is very vague

any help with that?

we refer to structural and dimensioned steel products like square tubing as

SAE 1018 or 1020
There are SAE american designations
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_steel_grades

and you may have different European, or Metric or other designations.

http://www.irsteel.com/steelstandards-en.html?page=bars_shapes.htm
This seems like it would be understood where you are.
JIS G3101 Rolled steel for general structure ASTM A36/A 36 M-91 Spec. for structural steel


It is the simplest, cheapest not heat treatable low carbon steel that you can buy as angles, squares, pipes, flats, H, I beams...

Galvanizing is not necessary, paint is just fine.
 
You might talk to your friend and tell him that regular steel can be used, the soft kind that welders use.

Yes drilling can be a problem if the drilling is done with a hand held drill, a drill press is usually a big help.

If you take the time to look up my grinder, the design requires very few holes to be drilled.

I know what you mean by the steel/iron confusion even around here I run into people who refer to structural steel as iron because iron workers do the assembly of steel framed buildings.

George

i will try to tell him about it

and he is actually one who builds machines, he has like 3 mills and drill press and bunch of stuff i dont even know

i did check out the grinder, looks great, and if drilling turns out to be hassle i'll definitely weld the whole thing!

thanks George

will let u know how it goes next time with him
 
we refer to structural and dimensioned steel products like square tubing as

SAE 1018 or 1020
There are SAE american designations
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_steel_grades

and you may have different European, or Metric or other designations.

http://www.irsteel.com/steelstandards-en.html?page=bars_shapes.htm
This seems like it would be understood where you are.
JIS G3101 Rolled steel for general structure ASTM A36/A 36 M-91 Spec. for structural steel


It is the simplest, cheapest not heat treatable low carbon steel that you can buy as angles, squares, pipes, flats, H, I beams...

Galvanizing is not necessary, paint is just fine.

many thanks for the info, i'll check with him again and will see

thanks again:)
 
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